Have you ever experienced a bad hair day that completely threw you for a loop, or a good hair day that changed your entire week? Maybe you’ve noticed that every time you wear a slicked-back bun, people seem to take you more seriously, but every time you throw your hair up in a messy style, you get side-eye. Curious as to why? Well, everyone on TikTok thinks they have an explanation, and it’s called hair theory.

For the unfamiliar, people are convinced that how you wear your hair — the length, color, and style — influences both how you look and how you’re perceived. The hashtag #hairtheory has more than 500 million views and counting, so if you haven’t yet given the idea of hair theory much attention, it might be time to start. Not sure where exactly to start in your research? Ahead, we chat with professional hairstylists who answer all of our questions about hair theory, including what it is and whether it actually makes a difference.

Experts Featured in This Article

Clayton Hawkins is a celebrity hairstylist.

Andrew Fitzsimons is a celebrity hairstylist and founder of his eponymous hair-care brand.

Chris Jones is a Virtue ambassador and co-owner and stylist at Salon Bugatti.

What Is TikTok’s Hair Theory?

“The ‘hair theory’ on TikTok claims that the way your hair is styled can change how you look and are perceived by others,” says celebrity hairstylist Clayton Hawkins. “Ask anyone who’s ever changed their hair color or thrown a wig on, and they’ll tell you: people absolutely treat you differently depending on how your hair looks.”

Not only can it affect how others perceive you, but it can also affect how you personally feel. Think about it. Have you ever had a bad hair day that left you feeling completely down in the dumps? Alternatively, a good hair day that left you feeling more confident than ever? Maybe you switched up your part for a night out with your friends and found the compliments rolling in.

So, what factors yield the biggest impact? Hair color, for one, can make a difference, as well as cuts and styles that are done specifically to accentuate certain facial features. “There are absolutely certain haircuts that complement different face shapes,” says Andrew Fitzsimons, celebrity hairstylist and founder of his eponymous hair-care brand. “For someone with a rounder face, a short, blunt cut can really help elongate the face and create soft angles. I’d recommend long layers for someone with an oval-shaped face to create lots of movement, paired with bangs if you’d like to conceal more.”

The overall style matters as well. In a TikTok video, user Nicole Smith shows a side-by-side photo of Jennifer Lopez and “Golden Girls” actor Estelle Getty. “They are both 50 in this picture,” Smith says in her video. While pointing to the photo of Getty, Smith asks, “Do you think if she had a different hairstyle she’d be perceived as looking younger? The answer is yes.” Smith then shows photos of other “Golden Girls” actors with different hairstyles, and it’s hard not to agree that the updated hairstyles make a difference.

Fitzsimons says long, loose waves are perfect for achieving an effortless, youthful look. Hawkins adds that full, voluminous hair will always make you look “beautiful and younger, regardless of your texture.” On the other hand, “for a more mature look, a sleek ponytail or bun can add a sophisticated touch as there’s more focus on your facial features and less hair to play with,” Fitzsimons says.

Still, while most of us might be considering hair theory for the first time, it’s something stylists are constantly thinking about. “What I love most about TikTok’s hair theory is that it’s an insider’s view of what we as hairdressers do every day, behind the chair,” says Chris Jones, co-owner of Salon Bugatti. “It’s a breakdown of what we discuss during every consultation with the clients. If I can marry hairstyle with lifestyle, then I know I’ve done my job as a stylist.”

Renee Rodriguez is a staff writer and social producer for PS. She writes across all verticals, but her main areas of expertise focus on fashion and beauty content with an emphasis on reviews and editor experiments. She also produces social content for the PS TikTok and Instagram accounts.

If you went to school any time in the 2000s, you likely remember seeing hallways littered with UGG boots, PINK sweatshirts (with no less than two tank tops underneath), and the pouf hairstyle. Now, we may have mastered a new way of layering, but UGGS are most definitely back, and in a twist of events that no one saw coming, so is that iconic (sometimes cringy) pouf.

Don’t just take our word for it — look at Jennifer Lopez, Meredith Duxbury, and Bella Hadid. Paris Fashion Week last year quickly became the unofficial-official birthplace of the Bring Back the Pouf campaign, with Victoria’s Secret model Nadine Leopold and Nicola Peltz Beckham pairing their high fashion looks with . . . the bump. Since then, the divisive hairstyle’s momentum hasn’t slowed down. And we have to admit, most of these looks are not the old-school, front-and-center puff we debuted in grade schools of the early aughts. It’s more modern, updated, and, dare we say, kind of chic.

Ahead, we spoke to a stylist to get expert tips for bringing the hairstyle trend into the year 2024.

Experts Featured in This Article

Sophie Sugarman is a celebrity hairstylist who works with clients like Nicola Coughlan, Asha Banks, and more.

The Modern Pouf Hairstyle

So the pouf is back. But you don’t want to look like you’re cosplaying as your younger self from 15 years ago, which is why there are ways to modernize it. “We are seeing the pouf return in a more relaxed, chicer way,” celebrity hairstylist Sophie Sugarman tells PS. If you remember, the original pouf was quite the statement with a lot of height, but that’s no longer the case. “There is no need to go huge,” she says. “[This] version of the pouf is more subtle.”

That’s the way many of beauty’s biggest It girls are wearing it. Keeping it smoother and using a larger section of hair almost creates the illusion of a half-up, half-down look. It works on all hair types to add volume and intrigue, and is “the perfect opportunity to add an accessory like a cute bow or clip,” Sugarman says.

How to Do the Modern Pouf Hairstyle

This hairstyle works on all haircuts, hair types, and lengths. To start, style your hair as you normally would. You can curl it, give yourself a blowout, airdry, or with your natural curls or coils. Then you’re ready to form your pouf. “Section off the face-framing pieces and pin [them] back at the crown of the head using the Unite Le:Play Hairspray ($36) to tame flyaways and add flexible hold with a satin finish,” says Sugarman. “It is a workable hairspray that’s strong enough to hold styles in place, yet flexible enough to brush out and refinish into other hairstyles.”

You can use bobby pins, a fancy hair clip, or a bow to secure your bump in place at the back of your head. Sugarman recommends ending with a spritz of shine spray. We like the Amika Top Gloss Hair Shine Spray ($29).

Don’t worry: you can leave the lace tank top at home.

Jessica Harrington is the senior beauty editor at PS, where she writes about hair, makeup, skin care, piercings, tattoos, and more. As a New York City-based writer and editor with a degree in journalism and over eight years of industry experience, she loves to interview industry experts, keep up with the latest trends, and test new products.